A Glare, a Baggie, and a Showdown

The Argentina Post has a suggestion for Buenos Aires' dog poop problem: scoop dispensers located throughout the city. The post is really great, the suggestion is just ok. But somewhere along the way these rude dog-owners or overburdened dogwalkers need to be taught how to be more considerate. Let's face it, there are trashcans all over the city and I've seen plenty of mothers watch their kids drop candy wrappers on the street and not say a word. Being courteous is something we're taught, it doesn't come naturally.

I've been here for a year and a half now. My first date in BA was ruined by dog poop. I've learned since then. There will be no making eye contact with your date while walking. I can't walk around looking at the architecture or the trees or the shop windows. Oh no, my eyes are on the pavement lest I step in a pile of runny feces.

On one part of my block, a disgusting tower of a building is in the final stages of construction. For the past two weeks, they've redone the sidewalk in front. But since no one actually lives there yet, it's also the favorite spot for dog owners to chat on their cell phones while their pet defiles the pretty new sidewalk, the wall, the trees.

Last Saturday, I'd had it. This woman was chatting away, leaning on a car and watching her dog walk two steps and poop, walk two steps and poop, walk two more and poop. I stopped dead in my tracks and gave her a glare. When she finally looked my way, I looked at her dog and glared at her again. She ignored me.

I happened to have a plastic bag in my purse, so I pulled it out and handed it to her. She didn't pick up the trail of turds, just called to her dog and walked away. If I had been more courageous I would have followed her and told her again to pick up her dog's mess. This woman probably threw paper on the sidewalk too and no one has ever told her that the trashcans are for trash. She hasn't been taught.

So this is a call to action. Keep a couple of plastic bags with you and hand them out to dog poop offenders. Glare at them, hand them the bag, and don't back down. If it calls for a showdown, stand your ground. Look, Paris had this problem and the French learned to walk around with baggies of poop. New Yorkers learned too. I'm not going to give up on porteños yet.

No Fair Winds in Buenos Aires

Close your windows and stay indoors. Buenos Aires is under a black cloud of smoke brought in from the burning grass fields north of the city. The smoke is heading towards Uruguay and without any rain and little wind, it looks like we're going to have burning eyes and scratchy throats for the days to come.

Airports, ports, bus terminals and highways have been closed. Firefighters are having trouble breaking through the cloud of smoke by helicopter or airplane to put the fires out that have spread over thousands of hectares. Once again the government and farmers are in disagreement as the government accuses farmers of illegally starting the fires to prepare their fields for grazing.

The smoke today reminded me of Cairo. The picture above is of the view from my window on a clear day and on a smoggy day. We used to say that it didn't make much sense to quit smoking when you live in Cairo because you basically inhale the equivalent of a pack of cigarettes a day. I know it doesn't make much sense. But it also didn't make sense that in October every year the farmers set fire to clear fields when Cairo is already one of the most polluted cities in the world.

These pictures are of the polo field here in Buenos Aires taken last week and today. October in Cairo, April in Buenos Aires. Either take up smoking or get a surgeon's mask.

Eternally Polished

I loved dolls when I was a child. I loved dressing them up and fixing their hair. I’d wash it, dry it, braid it, cut it, you name it. Using the hairdryer wasn’t a great idea. The plastic locks got scorched and after the haircuts I’d given them, my dolls typically looked like they’d gotten stuck in a paper shredder.



Young girls today don’t have to learn about hairstyles the hard way. American Girl Place, a shop in Los Angeles, has a hair salon for the dolls, a hospital to repair a doll after say a bad haircut or an amputated limb, a cafe where moms and daughters can dress up and have tea, and enough clothes and furniture for the dolls to fill one of those old Sears catalogs from the 70s.



This grooming obsessed culture is not just hard on young girls. Trying to stay real in such a narcissistic world can be rough for all of us. I live among the world’s most cut upon and waxed bodies. In my neighborhood for instance, let’s just take the four blocks immediately next to mine, there are four tanning salons, ten hair salons, and five salons that specialize in waxing alone.

Health insurance policies for the wealthy in Buenos Aires include one free plastic surgery per year. It’s hard to know what’s real and what isn’t. Foreign tourists take advantage of the highly skilled, low-cost sculpting the city offers. You can get your surgery done the first week and then take in a cruise through Antarctica to complete your recovery before going back home with a tighter face, bigger boobs, a higher butt, or smaller labia.

For those weary of the knife yet still desiring a new look, one guidebook’s list of 25 things to do in Buenos Aires lists "A Brazilian" as number 12. I thought they meant sex with a Brazilian, which seemed an odd recommendation. Then I remembered having read about Brazilian waxes being a lot cheaper here in Buenos Aires.

At first the obsession with polished, fuzz free skin and Baywatch bodies reminded me of Isaac Asimov’s book The End of Eternity in which one of the characters had no body hair because he came from a time when beauty was defined by one’s lack of hair. Could Asimov have known back in 1954 that some lunatic mothers in the States would be taking their 8-year-old daughters for their first Brazilian? (I really am grateful we’re talking about wax.)

Plastic as Buenos Aires is (Argentina ranks third in the world, after the US and Mexico, for number of cosmetic surgeries), I haven’t heard of mothers taking their prepubescent daughters to remove the one or two pubic hairs they might have. I don’t see 13-year-olds in hair salons exposing themselves to dangerous chemicals for a few streaks of blond or red. And graduation presents tend more towards a watch or nice piece of jewelry than new boobs.

Grooming rituals will probably always change, but I hope some of the "back to nature" movements that are changing the way we eat will have an influence on the way we see ourselves. In the meantime, check out one of the best articles about attitudes towards the body I've ever read, Horace Miner's "Body Ritual among the Nacirema."

Meatless in Buenos Aires

The two-week strike keeps going. Farmers, protesting massive taxes (41% for soybeans), have barricaded roads and stopped shipments of beef, dairy products, and other grains. The beef aisles in the supermarkets have been shut down and covered with tarps. Butcher shops are empty. Chicken prices have skyrocketed. We're all eating pizza and we may soon have no cheese for our pizza.

Yesterday a protest in Plaza de Mayo turned ugly. I asked a taxi driver and a friend of mine their opinion of the protest. Both said the government sent in their bankrolled protesters to beat up the others. The called it a mafia and voiced concerns that Argentine President Cristina Fernandez won't be able to handle the crisis. Neither wanted to think of what that would mean to the country.

According to the taxi driver and my friend, the problem isn't only that the taxes are too high. Argentina is one of the few places where the dollar is still strong. They claim that farmers and the government are enjoying the weak peso as exports grow. But the farmers aren't seeing much return. What's worse, the taxes, which the government claims are meant to disperse the money to sectors more in need, are not going back to those sectors. Corruption.

I used to think that the word corruption was overused here as if it were thrown around to explain all of the country's problems. Now I realize I have no idea what I'm talking about. Would the government actually send in paid protesters to beat up the legitimate protesters? Do they think people will believe that the farmers aren't in agreement and some farmers would beat up the others?

Regular citizens showed they too sided with the farmers by honking their horns ALL NIGHT LONG. More horns honked than when River or Boca when a match. The strike can't go on much longer, but I have no idea which side will retreat. One thing is certain, yesterday I had the worst empanada I've had since I got here. Don't eat meat until this is over.

Boutique Hotels in Baires

In a group of photos from Buenos Aires on Flickr some people have been asking about places to stay in Buenos Aires. There are tons of apartments for rent throughout the city. Head over to Craigslist Buenos Aires for some listings or YesBA for a more local audience.

The list below is one I put together for my aunt and uncle who are coming in March. They're traveling with friends who wanted a unique hotel and weren't too worried about the price. With that audience in mind, this list is organized by neighborhood (barrio) and the hotels were chosen for charm regardless of price.


Recoleta
Recoleta is one of the ritziest barrios of Buenos Aires. The buildings here are why Buenos Aires is called the Other Paris. There are beautiful outdoor cafes and shops (all the really fancy ones). It's close to the major tourist sights and the famous cemetery called Recoleta.

Alvear - This one is pricey but absolutely gorgeous. This street is like the St. Honore in Paris. All the really expensive shops are here.


Park Hyatt - Pricey but well worth it. Hands-down the most impressive in the area (even though some would say the Four Seasons is nicer). The service, the decor, the restaurants, bars, shopping, art gallery, everything is out of this world.

Design Suites - Less pricey. Very minimalistic design. Just down the road from the Alvear.

Art Hotel - Great area. Lots of wonderful streets to discover.

Retiro
This is the aristocrat neighborhood. It's also well located for seeing the major sights. I don't find this neighborhood to be as comfortable as Recoleta or Palermo. It's a little too close to downtown for me. Hustle and bustle without as much charm as the other areas.

Four Seasons - Called La Mansion, this hotel is also stunning.

Sofitel - Stunning as the Sofitel should be.


Palermo (Soho or Viejo)
Palermo is the trendy area of Buenos Aires. It's where all the new designers have shops, lots of great restaurants are here, the streets are less crowded and lined with trees. It feels more Buenos Aires to me than the first two barrios. The buildings are smaller (two or three stories usually). They aren't as elegant as Recoleta, but they are charming and lovely. The actual area called Palermo is huge. The hotels listed here are mostly in Palermo Soho.

Malabia House - This one looks amazing. Quiet and small with great style. Beautiful garden area.

Costa Petit Hotel - Looks just like I'd expect a boutique hotel to look and has a great location.

Home Buenos Aires - This one is pretty nice too. I love the decor... it feels very Buenos Aires.

Baucis Hotel - Artsy and unique.

Esplendor Hotel - Great location. The decor is too masculine for me. I like the gardens of Malabia and the dreamy feel of the place better.

Base Buenos Aires - There are apartments here, but that doesn't mean someone has to cook.


San Telmo
This barrio is older than the others. It was once where the aristocrats lived (the workers were in the barrio closer to the port called La Boca). Yellow fever made the aristocrats flee to Recoleta and Retiro. The houses here look more Italian. They are usually 2 or 3 stories high, have interior patios and lovely balconies, and are painted in warm earth tones. Many of them need some work, but the area has seen a lot of tourism lately (especially for tango and especially European tourists). There is a gorgeous indoor market that really makes you feel like you are in Sicily. San Telmo is not as safe as Recoleta and Palermo, but Buenos Aires is as safe as any other city of its size. San Telmo is also a bit farther away from the rest of the city and harder to get to and from. It's my favorite area because it's so artistic and alive. But it's for younger travelers who aren't here for fine dining and elegant surroundings.

Ribera Sur Hotel - Brand new hotel well-located for taking public transportation or taxis. It's a modern hotel with a great restaurant.

Gurda Hotel - A tango-dedicated hotel. Seems a little too casual for travelers looking for luxury, but it's unique.

Santa Down South

Christmas decorations here look just like those back home even though it's summer. But even more surprising is the fact that poor Santa has to wear his North Pole getup when everyone else is in a tank top and shorts. Here's a picture of Santa taken last year. Looks like he was delivering presents on his motorcycle. The sleigh doesn't work so well in summer I guess.

So how do Argentines celebrate the holidays? Pretty much the same way we do, eating and hanging out with the family. The only difference I noticed last year was that on the 24th at lunch time (which is around 2:00, not noon and never 11:00 am) restaurants were full. Then it seems people head back home to prepare for dinner and wait for midnight when the presents are opened.

They wear red on the 24th and could stay awake playing games, drinking wine, listening to music and enjoying each other's company until sunrise. As is usual here in Buenos Aires, dinner is served around 10:00 pm and lasts a few hours. The 25th is naturally more relaxed seeing as the night before was the real celebration.

Spirit Lifting Jacarandas

It really is the best time of year to be in Buenos Aires. I got here about a year ago and have been bragging about the jacarandas in spring ever since. How nice to be in a city where the seasons are so concrete. This first picture was taken in my neighborhood, Las Cañitas.

I was reading a fellow blogger's posts the other day and found out that LA has a pretty mean jacaranda season too. Check her photo out on Tango Cherie.


This picture was taken outside of the international post office where I went to pick up a box of books I sent myself. The mail service works. This was a big move for me. Sending my stuff from back home might mean I´m staying put for a while.

More Tango at Ideal

Dating in Buenos Aires

It was my first date in Buenos Aires. Actually, I wasn't sure it was a date at first. I'd met the guy because he was renting a room and I was looking for a place to stay. So when he invited me back to his apartment, I thought it might be to see where I would live when his current tenant moved out.

Our idea of personal space was different, or was he coming on to me? I wasn't sure, but one thing I was sure of was that something smelled downright awful. As we stood in the kitchen eating strawberries and sipping vodka, I thought "geez, this kitchen reeks." At least I hoped it was his kitchen since he was moving closer and closer, although I didn't think I would want to rent a room from him anymore.

Then we moved to the living room. But the smell followed and now I was sure he was going to kiss me. He'd shown me the entire apartment and there really wasn't much left to do but kiss or leave. So I left.

When I got home, wouldn't you know the smell followed me. I'd stepped in dog poop, traipsed it all over his house and blamed him. Moral of the story, when in Buenos Aires, watch where you step.

In my neighborhood there's a campaign to keep the streets clean. The streets are still filled with every type of dog poop you can imagine, and on the wall that says "This is our neighborhood, let's all work together to keep it clean," graffiti will soon overwrite the message. Oh well.

Language Lessons on the Road

Taxi drivers are often the best language teachers around. They love to talk and don't seem to mind if you don't understand what they're saying, they have plenty of time on their hands, and they're willing to share their opinions on everything. Eventually you do begin to understand, whether it's because you have practically the same conversation with each taxi driver or because they're sort of like bartenders--mobile shrinks who don't offer booze or meds, instead, their services come with a healthy load of exhaust and fear.

I'm used to crazy driving. After all, I lived in Cairo for three years. When friends visit me in Buenos Aires from the States, I watch them search for the seatbelt, pull it across their chests, and spend the next five minutes or so trying to insert it. All the while the driver is yacking away, speeding in and out of lanes, on the rear of the guy in front of him, smoking, and laughing.

Some friends were visiting a while back. I'd taken a cab out to the airport to pick them up. A nice 40-minute Spanish lesson out there. On our way back into town I was having a hard time carrying on two conversations: one with my friends whom I hadn't seen in about a year and the other with the taxi driver. I didn't want to be rude, but my friends and I had a lot of catching up to do.

"Fucking cops!" yelled the driver as we raced down the highway. We looked around; in front all seemed normal; there was nothing happening behind us. "Donde?" I asked. He was giggling so hard his shoulders were shaking.

"No, it's just that's the only thing I know how to say in English. You know, I learned it from the movies and TV," he laughed. And we joined him. "Fucking cops!"

Bikya…..robabikya

It’s been nearly a year since I’ve heard “bikya….robabikya.” I jumped out of bed this morning, threw open the curtains and realized I’m still in Buenos Aires. But for just a short moment I was back in Cairo.

“Bikya….robabikya.” What is the little guy who walks the streets telling people he’ll take the stuff that’s broken or that they don’t need anymore—robabikya, it’s called in Arabic—doing in Buenos Aires?

Or better, how come the flower guy sounds just like the robabikya guy? I know that’s not what he’s saying, but I’m going to sit here by the window and listen to his voice trail off, transported momentarily to my apartment in Zamalek and Saturday mornings on my balcony with a big ole cup of coffee and a thousand police officers below me sipping tea as they try not to fall asleep.

Nostalgic.

Vegans in Argentina

It's not easy being a vegetarian in Argentina so imagine how difficult it is if you're a vegan. When my vegan friends planned to visit me here, I warned them in advance.

After two weeks in Buenos Aires with a couple of vegans from North Florida, here's what I learned.

1. Vegetarian here means no beef. It does not mean no meat. And vegan is a totally foreign concept.

For the first couple of days I'd ask if there were any vegetarian dishes. "Sure, we have chicken dishes or ham and cheese empanadas, for example." Then I'd explain I meant dishes with no meat. But the word for meat is carne, which means beef. "They don't eat any land or water animals," I would explain, "or any products of animals like eggs, cheese, milk, etc." This explanation usually worked.

2. Salad, french fries, pizza and pasta (although most are made with eggs) are your best bet.

Salads here are fresh and cheap and virtually every restaurant has them. Argentines, though carnivores at heart, are very creative with their salads and you can pretty much guarantee there will be no land or water animals of any kind.

I've had the best fries I've ever eaten here in Argentina. When I asked what they did to make them so scrumptious, the waitress said they were fried in lard. It's probably worth asking if you're going to order fries.

The Italian influence here is everywhere. The way they drive, the way the men flirt, the way they speak Spanish. And yes, the way they cook or at least what they cook. For good pizzas try Piola or Romario. But your best bet for creative vegetarian-style pizza (and some pasta dishes) is Flor de Lino in San Telmo.

I'm a bit picky when it comes to pasta. There's a place everyone says is wonderful on the corner of Cordoba and Esmeralda. It's called Broccolino and it has the feel of an authentic Italian restaurant. My pasta was drowning in sauce though and the cheese they piled on top of it became a melted layer of rubber. Ask them to bring the cheese to the table and put it on yourself. If you're used to eating pasta in the States, you'll probably like the pasta here. If you're Italian, order something else.

3. Thai and Indian restaurants are plentiful.

There's a great Thai restaurant in Las Cañitas called Lotus Neo Thai. It's beautifully decorated and the food was wonderful.

For Indian food, try La Reina Kunti in Almagro or Krishna in Palermo.

4. Read the menu before you enter. Even some of the best parillas (steak places) offer fantastic vegetable dishes.

One of my favorite restaurants in Las Cañitas is a typical parilla called Las Cholas. They serve some traditional dishes from the North of Argentina along with the standard parilla fare. Try the vegetables from the oven (al horno): squash, potatoes, corn, and pumpkin cooked with honey. They also have some delicious rice and vegetable dishes but these usually come with a creamy cheese.

5. Four restaurants that offer creative all-vegetarian dishes.

Argentines are proud of their city and love to offer advice. Friends came running to my aid with a few amazing suggestions. The picture above is of Bio, a fantastic place that serves macrobiotic cuisine and delicious fresh juices.

A bit more upscale is Verdellama which claims to specialize in "life food." The chef is well-known Diego Castro who used to run a one-night-a-week all vegan restaurant from his home.

And finally there's Artemisia. Another upscale vegetarian restaurant in trendy Palermo that offers homemade natural cuisine and a nice wine list. Artemisia's menu also includes some fish dishes in case you're going with friends who aren't veggie lovers.

To find restuarants by type of food, location, or rating go to the Oleo Guide of restaurant in Buenos Aires.

Also interesting is this article in Spanish Recorrido vegetariano: verde en todos los tonos on vegetarian options in the capital.

Tango at Ideal

Yes, I have become a tango junkie. Here's a video of the latest outing with Chuck and Kathe. I danced this time. The first partner was 94 years old. They got younger as the night got older.

Tango at Tortoni

Tango is one of the reasons I moved to Buenos Aires. It's passionate, dramatic, melancholic, and stunningly beautiful. I went to the show at one of Buenos Aires' most famous cafes, Tortoni. I like milongas better (this is where true tango lovers show up with their shoes in a bag and dance til sunrise), but I'm always afraid someone will ask me to dance. Watching this couple put on the show for tourists from all over the world at Cafe Tortoni was not necessarily authentic, but it was moving.


A friend of mine moved here from the States a few years ago after a month-long visit to study tango. She was working on her dissertation where she uses tango as a metaphor for the soul. Her blog The Tango Jungle has all sorts of insider information for tango wannabes. She hasn't written in a while, but browse through her earlier posts. You'll learn all the do's and dont's of milonga etiquette.

Alquilar un Marido

They have this thing here called Alquilar un Marido (rent a husband). The first time I saw the sign I thought they'd pretty much hit the nail on the head. I mean, husbands are expensive and mostly useful in short spurts. Renting one seemed like a good idea.

Then I learned that these are really handymen. If you ask me, they got the name wrong. I'll bet the majority of women who call needing a handyman already have a husband who isn't very handy.

I rented my first two husbands today. David and his son David came to fix my heater. They're friendly and funny and very handy. They cost a lot less than most husbands I know and the heater actually works. I won't be filing for divorce any time soon.

New Neigborhood

Las Canitas is my new neighborhood. These are my friends Gonzalo and Naty on my first night in the new pad. When I first came here I thought it was too trendy for me. It's almost like the South Beach of Buenos Aires. It has layers though. While it's not a barrio barrio, it's definitely a curious place. Dog walkers, joggers, those who weed through the trash looking for cardboard or bottles or whatever else they might be able to sell, polo players, beautiful people sitting in corner cafes, and three sushi restaurants on my street alone. This is a far cry from my last two homes--downtown Buenos Aires and Zamalek in Cairo.

Sure, there are things I miss about the other two places. I miss the chaos sometimes. And although it feels like I've sold out by not waiting until I found an apartment in the more bohemian quarter, San Telmo , the green trees and fresh air here more than make up for the plastic breasts and sculpted bodies I share the streets with.

New Apartment

For five months I lived in downtown Buenos Aires surrounded by pollution and noise. I knew I needed to move but was too afraid to commit to a contract. I have a two-year contract and a beautiful little apartment with a view of the polo field.

It was about a month ago when I went to the countryside with some friends that I realized how poisonous my surroundings were. I've wasted so many hours sitting in that noisy apartment trying to concentrate and getting nothing accomplished. I even created this blog three months ago. It just sat here.

I don't know what this blog will be about other than things that inspire me or things I'm curious about. For now, that's enough. A start. A new beginning in a new city and a new apartment.

Things that inspire me......

sunrises
sunsets
light
green
beaches
mountains
friendship
flamenco
fresh food
languages
honesty
traveling
independence
freedom
love
palm trees
talent
good movies
cooking
wine
street food
coffee
cultures
black and white photographs
portraits
change
laughter...