Sunday, November 2, 2008

Obama Makes My Face Light Up

When my Argentinean friends ask me how McCain could have chosen Palin as his running mate, I usually have to get into the discussion of America's culture war. It's a topic that always gets me worked up, so I try to summarize for them:

Half of the country is proud of our diversity and half is threatened by it. Half believes that people who don't have a job need a hand to get back on track, and half thinks they're slackers. Half believes in science, and half mocks science.

Then I explain that Obama represents the first half, McCain is somewhere in the middle, and Palin represents the second half. Poor Biden, no one seems to ask about him.

But whenever I talk about Obama, my friends notice that my face lights up. Since Argentines are inherently skeptical of government, they think I'm naive (and they may be right). Explaining my excitement over Obama is way more difficult than explaining the culture wars.

"It's what Obama represents," I tell them. "He's half black, half white, well educated, articulate, rational. He makes me feel good about my country again."

They inevitably bring up Clinton. "Besides the race issue," they ask, "isn't Obama pretty much like Clinton?"

And politically, they're right. He is a lot like Clinton. And while I liked Clinton, my face didn't light up when I spoke about him. "It could just be that the past eight years were so bad that any sign of hope makes one half of the country feel elated," a friend suggested.

"Maybe." I left it at that not sure how I could explain what it is really about to me.

But today I read Roger Cohen's op-ed in the New York Times, American Stories. And now, I'm ready to go out with my friends tonight and give them my answer to the question.

There are many of cultural divides in the US, but the big ones have been over race, religion, and region. White vs. black, Christians vs. secularists, Northerners vs. Southerners. And over the past eight years, us vs. them has reached catastrophic levels and it has been fueled by our leaders. To me, Obama represents the opportunity for Americans to be one people. His speeches inspire us to see past these divides. It's in part due to the fact that he doesn't attack his opponents on cultural issues, he rises above that, and, in so doing, sets an example for everyone. That's the hope that I see in Obama.

And I hope that if this is the change Obama brings to the States, it might spread. And that, I believe, would bring more security and prosperity to the entire world.

Friday, October 31, 2008

Worst Ad Ever

That's what they are calling Liddy Dole's ad which accuses her opponent of, in essence, being an atheist. The final line pretends to be Kay Hagan's voice saying, "There is no god." Hagan strikes back, "I've taught Sunday school."



A part of me wonders why this is considered to be the "worst" ad ever. I mean, oooooo... they called you an atheist. Get out the guns. Prove you aren't. After all, anyone who's taught Sunday school must be pro-America.

So, as Michelle Bachman made clear, elitists (i.e. those who read and speak in complete sentences) are anti-American. And now, Liddy Dole (and Kay Hagan with her response to Dole) make the case for atheist=bad person. Ah yes, you're an atheist, must mean you're a terrorist. You're the devil. Bet you hang out with that Ayres guy.

I get it. Anyone who wants to run for office in the States must end every speech with "God Bless America." I get it. Americans love their god more than their constitution. But since these people are not elitists, they probably have not read the constitution or history. To them it reads, we guarantee the "right to religion," and down low at the bottom in 6 pt. font below the signatures it says, "but if you don't believe in God, you're outta here."

The media should not be calling this the worst ad in this political cycle. The ad linked Hagan to a group of secularists that want religion to be a private matter. They want government officials who wonder "is this it? Don't we need to make life here on Earth the best it can be because there may not be a heaven?" They want "In God We Trust" taken off dollars because we should trust in ourselves. And hey, let's face it... if there is a god, don't you think that would be the big plan anyway?

I put you here, gave you these resources, this amazing planet, a whole bunch of other people to share it with....it's your turn to do something?

Something like, take care of this planet I gave you and take care of these other people you share it with.

Ah... I must be a socialist, communist, atheist, anti-American, elitist. How could I even think such a thing?

Thursday, October 2, 2008

Debates and Bingo

I'm sort of bummed to not be in Buenos Aires for tonight's debate between Biden and Palin. Last week the turnout in BA was amazing, so this one ought to really impress.



If I were there, I'd print out these Bingo cards and bring enough for at least the 300 people who showed up for last week's debate.

Friday, September 12, 2008

Small Town Values and Other Rovian Tactics

I've been in Los Angeles for a while now and got to see the Republican National Convention coverage and the aftermath of the Sarah Palin pick. And this is exactly why I don't watch TV. Talk about make you stupid. When I'm in Argentina, it's easy to not really know what issues are being talked about here in the States or if they are talking about issues at all.

One non-issue the RNC slammed down our throats at the convention was the small town values vs. the elitist cosmopolitan values of those who actually read books and have opinions (informed opinions) on the issues. Here's the Daily Show's take on small town values. You gotta love Jon Stewart and his gang.



Tell you what, these people don't do small towns any favors. Sounds like they're talking about the kinds of places where everyone knows everyone, ergo everyone knows everyone's business.

Throwing the hockey mom down our throats may not have been Karl Rove's idea, but the GOP has been paying attention during the last two elections. They know what it takes to win. Employing Rovian tactics--i.e. figure out what your competition will accuse you of and accuse them of it first--has worked before. Sure, it's not something to be proud of, but this is politics.

Which is why I'm so shocked when Republicans claim that McCain and Palin would bring about change or that they would clean up Washington. What? They're playing the exact same game as always. McCain's pick of Palin was political, it wasn't about choosing the best person to take over should something happen to him.

At the end of the day, any educated voter who chooses the Republicans does so either because they're rich and want to pay fewer taxes or because they think flexing your muscles shows your enemies that you are a force to be reckoned with. If it's because they're rich, I don't have an argument for them. They will probably pay fewer taxes with a GOP president. But if it's because they think the Republicans are the ones willing to do what it takes to keep America safe, they couldn't be more wrong.

I've heard the "the end justifies the means" argument regarding our occupation of Iraq and our use of torture. It's the equivalent of selling your soul to the devil and then being surprised when you find yourself in hell. You'd think that the 7th anniversary of 9/11 would have brought out the issue of how we deal with threats to our security. Instead, the talk was about whether Obama called Palin a pig and the nasty mudslinging that this election has brought about.

Guess we'll have to wait for Jon Stewart to steer us back towards the issues again by making a mockery of the talking points. If nothing more, the Daily Show will give us a good laugh, something I think most educated voters are in dire need of.

Monday, July 14, 2008

A Glare, a Baggie, and a Showdown

The Argentina Post has a suggestion for Buenos Aires' dog poop problem: scoop dispensers located throughout the city. The post is really great, the suggestion is just ok. But somewhere along the way these rude dog-owners or overburdened dogwalkers need to be taught how to be more considerate. Let's face it, there are trashcans all over the city and I've seen plenty of mothers watch their kids drop candy wrappers on the street and not say a word. Being courteous is something we're taught, it doesn't come naturally.

I've been here for a year and a half now. My first date in BA was ruined by dog poop. I've learned since then. There will be no making eye contact with your date while walking. I can't walk around looking at the architecture or the trees or the shop windows. Oh no, my eyes are on the pavement lest I step in a pile of runny feces.

On one part of my block, a disgusting tower of a building is in the final stages of construction. For the past two weeks, they've redone the sidewalk in front. But since no one actually lives there yet, it's also the favorite spot for dog owners to chat on their cell phones while their pet defiles the pretty new sidewalk, the wall, the trees.

Last Saturday, I'd had it. This woman was chatting away, leaning on a car and watching her dog walk two steps and poop, walk two steps and poop, walk two more and poop. I stopped dead in my tracks and gave her a glare. When she finally looked my way, I looked at her dog and glared at her again. She ignored me.

I happened to have a plastic bag in my purse, so I pulled it out and handed it to her. She didn't pick up the trail of turds, just called to her dog and walked away. If I had been more courageous I would have followed her and told her again to pick up her dog's mess. This woman probably threw paper on the sidewalk too and no one has ever told her that the trashcans are for trash. She hasn't been taught.

So this is a call to action. Keep a couple of plastic bags with you and hand them out to dog poop offenders. Glare at them, hand them the bag, and don't back down. If it calls for a showdown, stand your ground. Look, Paris had this problem and the French learned to walk around with baggies of poop. New Yorkers learned too. I'm not going to give up on porteños yet.

Sunday, June 29, 2008

Reaching Broader Audiences

I've followed Howard Zinn's writing for years. His book "A People's History of the United States," is a comic book illustration of American history meant to reach an audience that is outside of the establishment. I love the idea.

When I taught composition, I always wanted to have students create video essays. I believed that this generation is more impacted by images than words, and that the combination of images and words is an incredibly powerful medium. The challenge would have been to maintain the same standard for sources and arguments required in an academic essay (i.e citations, credible sources, well-balanced arguments, etc.). My bosses never liked the idea. I wish I could have shown them this video, "Empire or Humanity? What the Classroom Didn't Teach Me about the American Empire," based on an essay Zinn wrote for TomDispatch and narrated by Viggo Mortenson.



Will it reach a broader audience? It's been viewed almost 80,000 times and I bet a large number of those 80,000 people don't have a copy of the book. Plus, there are roughly 340 comments on YouTube. Some of them are worthless, but others resemble the types of discussions I tried to get my students to engage in. For example:

"How does one spread humanity? The problems that he identifies are real, but his solutions are too vague?"

Maybe it's all wishful thinking, but the video does prove that a message that combines words with images can be as powerful as a book (if not more powerful). What do you guys think?

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Ch-Ch-Ch-Changes

Back in November, I bought an apartment with some friends here. It was a big move for me since I've pretty much lived from paycheck to paycheck my entire adult life. I was worried that if I didn't invest my savings, I'd spend everything, but I didn't have enough to buy my own place. Then I lost both of my jobs.

Panic!

So, I went on vacation, took a lot of pictures, and started writing some fiction.



I was writing this blog(albeit infrequently) and the one for our loft, editing the thousands of photos I'd taken in California, and meeting weekly with a writing group. I felt like I was spending all my time at the computer. Not much of a life. So, I deleted my Facebook account and stopped writing Inspirosity (unable to actually give up on this blog, just holding off on it for a while). With no Facebook to distract me, I've finished two stories and learned all sorts of neat Photoshop tricks.



Our loft is constantly booked and a few neighbors are asking us to manage renting out their lofts. We're considering expanding our site to add personalized tours and other services for tourists. So, now I'm learning about website design and management.

When I lost my jobs, people kept asking me if I was doing alright and I'd answer, "yea, I know it will all work out. It always does." But I wasn't sure I believed myself. Lo and behold, it is all working out.

The best part is that without a job, I've been able to hang out with the people that rent our loft and I've joined a really cool social networking site for travelers and hosted a few people in my apartment. Meeting other people who love to travel, to experience new places, to learn new things, is what makes life so great.

Since I'm inspired again, guess I'm back.

Friday, April 18, 2008

No Fair Winds in Buenos Aires

Close your windows and stay indoors. Buenos Aires is under a black cloud of smoke brought in from the burning grass fields north of the city. The smoke is heading towards Uruguay and without any rain and little wind, it looks like we're going to have burning eyes and scratchy throats for the days to come.




Airports, ports, bus terminals and highways have been closed. Firefighters are having trouble breaking through the cloud of smoke by helicopter or airplane to put the fires out that have spread over thousands of hectares. Once again the government and farmers are in disagreement as the government accuses farmers of illegally starting the fires to prepare their fields for grazing.



Cairo Contrast



The smoke today reminded me of Cairo. The picture above is of the view from my window on a clear day and on a smoggy day. We used to say that it didn't make much sense to quit smoking when you live in Cairo because you basically inhale the equivalent of a pack of cigarettes a day. I know it doesn't make much sense. But it also didn't make sense that in October every year the farmers set fire to clear fields when Cairo is already one of the most polluted cities in the world.



Buenos Aires Contrast



These pictures are of the polo field here in Buenos Aires taken last week and today. October in Cairo, April in Buenos Aires. Either take up smoking or get a surgeon's mask.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

Eternally Polished

I loved dolls when I was a child. I loved dressing them up and fixing their hair. I’d wash it, dry it, braid it, cut it, you name it. Using the hairdryer wasn’t a great idea. The plastic locks got scorched and after the haircuts I’d given them, my dolls typically looked like they’d gotten stuck in a paper shredder.

Doll Store

Young girls today don’t have to learn about hairstyles the hard way. American Girl Place, a shop in Los Angeles, has a hair salon for the dolls, a hospital to repair a doll after say a bad haircut or an amputated limb, a cafe where moms and daughters can dress up and have tea, and enough clothes and furniture for the dolls to fill one of those old Sears catalogs from the 70s.

The Cafe

This grooming obsessed culture is not just hard on young girls. Trying to stay real in such a narcissistic world can be rough for all of us. I live among the world’s most cut upon and waxed bodies. In my neighborhood for instance, let’s just take the four blocks immediately next to mine, there are four tanning salons, ten hair salons, and five salons that specialize in waxing alone.

Health insurance policies for the wealthy in Buenos Aires include one free plastic surgery per year. It’s hard to know what’s real and what isn’t. Foreign tourists take advantage of the highly skilled, low-cost sculpting the city offers. You can get your surgery done the first week and then take in a cruise through Antarctica to complete your recovery before going back home with a tighter face, bigger boobs, a higher butt, or smaller labia.

For those weary of the knife yet still desiring a new look, one guidebook’s list of 25 things to do in Buenos Aires lists "A Brazilian" as number 12. I thought they meant sex with a Brazilian, which seemed an odd recommendation. Then I remembered having read about Brazilian waxes being a lot cheaper here in Buenos Aires.

At first the obsession with polished, fuzz free skin and Baywatch bodies reminded me of Isaac Asimov’s book The End of Eternity in which one of the characters had no body hair because he came from a time when beauty was defined by one’s lack of hair. Could Asimov have known back in 1954 that some lunatic mothers in the States would be taking their 8-year-old daughters for their first Brazilian? (I really am grateful we’re talking about wax.)

Plastic as Buenos Aires is (Argentina ranks third in the world, after the US and Mexico, for number of cosmetic surgeries), I haven’t heard of mothers taking their prepubescent daughters to remove the one or two pubic hairs they might have. I don’t see 13-year-olds in hair salons exposing themselves to dangerous chemicals for a few streaks of blond or red. And graduation presents tend more towards a watch or nice piece of jewelry than new boobs.

Grooming rituals will probably always change, but I hope some of the "back to nature" movements that are changing the way we eat will have an influence on the way we see ourselves. In the meantime, check out one of the best articles about attitudes towards the body I've ever read, Horace Miner's "Body Ritual among the Nacirema."

Thursday, March 27, 2008

Meatless in Buenos Aires

The two-week strike keeps going. Farmers, protesting massive taxes (41% for soybeans), have barricaded roads and stopped shipments of beef, dairy products, and other grains. The beef aisles in the supermarkets have been shut down and covered with tarps. Butcher shops are empty. Chicken prices have skyrocketed. We're all eating pizza and we may soon have no cheese for our pizza.

Yesterday a protest in Plaza de Mayo turned ugly. I asked a taxi driver and a friend of mine their opinion of the protest. Both said the government sent in their bankrolled protesters to beat up the others. The called it a mafia and voiced concerns that Argentine President Cristina Fernandez won't be able to handle the crisis. Neither wanted to think of what that would mean to the country.

According to the taxi driver and my friend, the problem isn't only that the taxes are too high. Argentina is one of the few places where the dollar is still strong. They claim that farmers and the government are enjoying the weak peso as exports grow. But the farmers aren't seeing much return. What's worse, the taxes, which the government claims are meant to disperse the money to sectors more in need, are not going back to those sectors. Corruption.

I used to think that the word corruption was overused here as if it were thrown around to explain all of the country's problems. Now I realize I have no idea what I'm talking about. Would the government actually send in paid protesters to beat up the legitimate protesters? Do they think people will believe that the farmers aren't in agreement and some farmers would beat up the others?

Regular citizens showed they too sided with the farmers by honking their horns ALL NIGHT LONG. More horns honked than when River or Boca when a match. The strike can't go on much longer, but I have no idea which side will retreat. One thing is certain, yesterday I had the worst empanada I've had since I got here. Don't eat meat until this is over.

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Symbolic and More: Obama '08

Back in December Andrew Sullivan wrote an article in the Atlantic Monthly, "Goodbye to All That: Why Obama Matters." I don't always agree with Sullivan, after all, he did endorse G.W. in 2000. But his December article made the point that an Obama presidency would symbolize a turn in American politics that would help us restore our damaged image. I couldn't agree more.

But symbolism is not reason enough to vote for Obama. There's much more substance to the man and his campaign than mere hope and symbolism. Change is a big part of it and something I think Clinton does not promise. Lawrence Lessig's 20-minute video (embedded here below) on why he supports Barack Obama puts it better than I ever could. Enjoy!



Saturday, March 8, 2008

Two Weeks in LaLaLand



I'm back from two weeks in California, a blue state. I was there during the Oscars when LA became a ghost town. No traffic, no need to make reservations, no lines anywhere, save, I suppose, in front of the Kodak theater. Back in 2003 there was talk of whether or not they should hold the Oscars. After all, we were a country at war.

Once again the Oscars almost didn't happen. But not because of our ongoing war: the writer's strike nearly brought down the annual celebration of overpaid stars, mediocre scripts, and ego hasta la luna.

This year's Oscars were considered a flop. Fewer people attended, fewer viewers tuned in, and, oh no, for the first time ever all four major Oscars for acting went to foreigners. A true tragedy.

No activist actors boycotted to send a message to the presidential candidates that it's high time the war become the subject of debate in this campaign. Well, that's not totally fair. McCan't is all about war, and fear, and no tax increases, and riding the wave to oblivion. Our troops will stay there but we won't call it war.

So why not? Why was there no talk of whether or not it would be in bad taste to hold a party celebrating our cinematic triumphs when our soldiers and Iraqis continue to die (more than 1.3 million so far have died according to the Oxford Research Bureau)? Why isn't the war the main issue in this campaign?

It's the economy. LA's economy was hurt by the writer's strikes. People were out of work. Studios couldn't produce. The films that were already being produced were nearing completion. Ending the strike before the Oscars said "We're back in business." The US economy is also hurting. And since there really is no cheap or clear solution for ending our occupation of Iraq and rebuilding the nation we wrecked, the candidates are ignoring the fact that the majority of Americans do not support the war. We can't afford to fix it so we'll stay indefinitely, or at least for the moment.

I've often thought that California would be the one place I could live in the States if I were to return. It's the nexus of change. I did meet people who get it. And certainly more than I would find in other parts of the country. But I was astounded at how many Democrats with Republican talking points I met. The blue state, save New York, maybe. The people who gave Gore an Oscar last year, the people who push for cleaner fuels, who eat organic, who teach the difference between religiosity and spirituality, who probably started the worldwide anti-smoking movement, were largely missing in action.

Saturday, February 16, 2008

Fear of Knowledge

The New York Times published a review of a new book called "The Age of American Unreason," by Susan Jacoby. She decided to write the book on 9/11 back in 2001 when she overheard a conversation comparing the attacks to Pearl Harbor. "What's Pearl Harbor?" asked one of the guys. The other explained that it was "when the Vietnamese dropped bombs in a harbor, and it started the Vietnam War." Yep, overhearing that conversation could drive any informed citizen downright mad.

What is the deal with the anti-intellectual trend in the States? There's hope though. Check out the video below to hear a young guy who has informed opinions and expresses them well. He even looks cool.

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

McCan't See the Forest for the Trees

Had a brief debate with a friend who supports McCain. My friend explained that he and I see eye to eye on most issues, but that there's one big difference.

The issue we see differently is the “terrorist threat” posed by Muslim fundamentalists (fundies, I call them, whether Christian or Muslim). He thinks the fundies are a major threat. I won’t argue with that (not because I agree, but because I know there is no point arguing on that subject).

So if the terrorist threat is the main issue for him, then he must be supporting McCain because of his stand on Iraq and Iran. I pointed out that the war in Iraq had nothing to do with terrorism. He agreed that it didn’t at the beginning, but said that in his opinion it does now. So I asked if he thought that invading and occupying another country and maintaining a losing war in that country created more terrorists (whatever their religion may be). Destroying your image around the world and acting like self-righteous mavericks can’t help the “War on Terror” if such a war even really exists, can it?

A lot of people think my view of reality is tainted by having lived in the Middle East for a spell and because I haven't lived in the States much for the past 15 years. They tell me I am misinformed and cannot see the forest for the trees. Odd that having actually lived in the Middle East for three years would qualify me as “uninformed.”

Of course, the way I see it, it’s the Republicans who can’t see the forest for the trees. It’s anyone who believes this war was about anything other than oil and money who are blind. And it’s those who think that starting another war would make us more secure.

So to me, McCain will forever be McCan’t. And considering I support the “Yes, We Can” candidate. I think it hits the nail on the head. Go Obama!

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Breaking the silence... well, sort of

I’m breaking my silence. I haven’t written in a while because the only subject that inspires me now is politics, and some years ago I decided not to talk about politics. It was a practical decision. I made everyone mad when I talked about politics and I need friends.

People who know me might think I haven’t really sworn off the subject of politics. I do join in on occasion. But I never really say what I honestly think. Or better, I throw out some simple statements to get a feel for the climate and take it from there. The exception is with those friends who see things the way I do. Then the real me comes out.

When I’m not thinking about the elections in the States, I am typically writing lessons about communication. How’s that for irony? My lessons are for business people around the world learning English and the goals are very different.

In these business communication lessons I teach people to analyze their audience, to pace (that is, to match the audience’s expectations in terms of delivery speed, word choice, nonverbal communication, etc.), to use positive emphasis (point out the good side), and to reserve emotions.

I may have been teaching this so long that I’ve become a business communicator all the time. When there is conflict, I know I need to listen carefully and reserve judgment. I’m aware that my view is not everyone else’s view and that people rarely hear a message the same way the sender intended it to be heard. I teach that as we listen, we delete the information that doesn’t match our own views and then distort the rest of the information so that it does.

So I think I’ve become a walking business communication puppet. And it’s driving me absolutely nuts.

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Boutique Hotels in Baires

In a group of photos from Buenos Aires on Flickr some people have been asking about places to stay in Buenos Aires. There are tons of apartments for rent throughout the city. Head over to Craigslist Buenos Aires for some listings or YesBA for a more local audience.

The list below is one I put together for my aunt and uncle who are coming in March. They're traveling with friends who wanted a unique hotel and weren't too worried about the price. With that audience in mind, this list is organized by neighborhood (barrio) and the hotels were chosen for charm regardless of price.


Recoleta
Recoleta is one of the ritziest barrios of Buenos Aires. The buildings here are why Buenos Aires is called the Other Paris. There are beautiful outdoor cafes and shops (all the really fancy ones). It's close to the major tourist sights and the famous cemetery called Recoleta.

Alvear - This one is pricey but absolutely gorgeous. This street is like the St. Honore in Paris. All the really expensive shops are here.


Park Hyatt - Pricey but well worth it. Hands-down the most impressive in the area (even though some would say the Four Seasons is nicer). The service, the decor, the restaurants, bars, shopping, art gallery, everything is out of this world.

Design Suites - Less pricey. Very minimalistic design. Just down the road from the Alvear.

Art Hotel - Great area. Lots of wonderful streets to discover.

Retiro
This is the aristocrat neighborhood. It's also well located for seeing the major sights. I don't find this neighborhood to be as comfortable as Recoleta or Palermo. It's a little too close to downtown for me. Hustle and bustle without as much charm as the other areas.

Four Seasons - Called La Mansion, this hotel is also stunning.

Sofitel - Stunning as the Sofitel should be.


Palermo (Soho or Viejo)
Palermo is the trendy area of Buenos Aires. It's where all the new designers have shops, lots of great restaurants are here, the streets are less crowded and lined with trees. It feels more Buenos Aires to me than the first two barrios. The buildings are smaller (two or three stories usually). They aren't as elegant as Recoleta, but they are charming and lovely. The actual area called Palermo is huge. The hotels listed here are mostly in Palermo Soho.

Malabia House - This one looks amazing. Quiet and small with great style. Beautiful garden area.

Costa Petit Hotel - Looks just like I'd expect a boutique hotel to look and has a great location.

Home Buenos Aires - This one is pretty nice too. I love the decor... it feels very Buenos Aires.

Baucis Hotel - Artsy and unique.

Esplendor Hotel - Great location. The decor is too masculine for me. I like the gardens of Malabia and the dreamy feel of the place better.

Base Buenos Aires - There are apartments here, but that doesn't mean someone has to cook.


San Telmo
This barrio is older than the others. It was once where the aristocrats lived (the workers were in the barrio closer to the port called La Boca). Yellow fever made the aristocrats flee to Recoleta and Retiro. The houses here look more Italian. They are usually 2 or 3 stories high, have interior patios and lovely balconies, and are painted in warm earth tones. Many of them need some work, but the area has seen a lot of tourism lately (especially for tango and especially European tourists). There is a gorgeous indoor market that really makes you feel like you are in Sicily. San Telmo is not as safe as Recoleta and Palermo, but Buenos Aires is as safe as any other city of its size. San Telmo is also a bit farther away from the rest of the city and harder to get to and from. It's my favorite area because it's so artistic and alive. But it's for younger travelers who aren't here for fine dining and elegant surroundings.

Ribera Sur Hotel - Brand new hotel well-located for taking public transportation or taxis. It's a modern hotel with a great restaurant.

Gurda Hotel - A tango-dedicated hotel. Seems a little too casual for travelers looking for luxury, but it's unique.

Monday, January 14, 2008

Once a Soldier of Independence, Always a .....

A few weeks ago I found a starving, filthy cat on my way to the bank. People had laid out food, but all he seemed to want was attention. I watched him for about 30 minutes then took him to the vet. She implied she wouldn't help him unless I promised to keep him. I like cats; I just don't like the responsibility.

I don't like litter boxes. I don't like cat hair on my cool black clothes. I don't like having to find a catsitter when I go out of town. Plus, a friend was coming for New Year's and he might not like cats. No excuse worked. Indie (named after the street on which I found him, Soldado de la Independencia or Soldier of Independence) and I were roommates now.

Indie's a skinny fellow. He was covered in charcoal. His nails were shaved down to nothing. His ears were black and bald. But from the moment I picked him up, he snuggled, purred, and looked into my eyes with that adorable stare. My heart was taken. But being in a relationship means taking the good with the bad.



The thing is, like most men who haven't been fixed, he doesn't really care who loves him so long as he's the center of attention. Truly nondiscriminatory, Indie flirts with everyone--men, women, birds, horses. So when my friend arrived, Indie welcomed him and they too became friends.

But then Indie realized he'd lost his place in the bed and my attention was now divided. He stopped eating and stopped drinking water. He even gave me ringworm (on the back of my neck, on my cheek, and on one arm). Was he sabotaging my plans for a romantic start to 2008?

Stubborn. He's so stubborn we spent the first day of the year in the hospital as Indie got an I.V. and really expensive food no cat would refuse. He ended up hospitalized for three days. But he gained a whole kilo while there and I got the start to 2008 I wanted.

Now that it's just the two of us again, Indie seems a little sad. I think he liked the competition. This morning, as if to tell me he can leave whenever he wants, he jumped up on the balcony table. I came out with some food and he said...

Tuesday, January 8, 2008

Huff and Puff

Here's a great paragraph from Ariana Huffington's latest post on Hillary's strategy for criticizing Obama. Number five on the list of attacks against Obama is that he is a dreamer. To that, Ariana writes:

Oh, yeah, that's the last thing we need, someone who actually seeks to inspire Americans to allow their reach to exceed their grasp. That's the problem with leaders like Lincoln, Kennedy, and Martin Luther King -- they just weren't realistic enough. King shouldn't have said, "I have a dream!," he should have said, "I have a realistic view of what we should settle for! We probably won't be able to pass the Civil Rights Act, but we might be able to pass a bill condemning segregated water fountains. You probably won't be able to sit at the front of the bus, but I might be able to get you to the middle."

Way to put things into perspective. While I'd vote for Hillary if she got the nomination, I wouldn't be excited about voting for her. Let's hope the Democrats find their courage and give us a candidate who can inspire.