No Fair Winds in Buenos Aires

Close your windows and stay indoors. Buenos Aires is under a black cloud of smoke brought in from the burning grass fields north of the city. The smoke is heading towards Uruguay and without any rain and little wind, it looks like we're going to have burning eyes and scratchy throats for the days to come.

Airports, ports, bus terminals and highways have been closed. Firefighters are having trouble breaking through the cloud of smoke by helicopter or airplane to put the fires out that have spread over thousands of hectares. Once again the government and farmers are in disagreement as the government accuses farmers of illegally starting the fires to prepare their fields for grazing.

The smoke today reminded me of Cairo. The picture above is of the view from my window on a clear day and on a smoggy day. We used to say that it didn't make much sense to quit smoking when you live in Cairo because you basically inhale the equivalent of a pack of cigarettes a day. I know it doesn't make much sense. But it also didn't make sense that in October every year the farmers set fire to clear fields when Cairo is already one of the most polluted cities in the world.

These pictures are of the polo field here in Buenos Aires taken last week and today. October in Cairo, April in Buenos Aires. Either take up smoking or get a surgeon's mask.

Bikya…..robabikya

It’s been nearly a year since I’ve heard “bikya….robabikya.” I jumped out of bed this morning, threw open the curtains and realized I’m still in Buenos Aires. But for just a short moment I was back in Cairo.

“Bikya….robabikya.” What is the little guy who walks the streets telling people he’ll take the stuff that’s broken or that they don’t need anymore—robabikya, it’s called in Arabic—doing in Buenos Aires?

Or better, how come the flower guy sounds just like the robabikya guy? I know that’s not what he’s saying, but I’m going to sit here by the window and listen to his voice trail off, transported momentarily to my apartment in Zamalek and Saturday mornings on my balcony with a big ole cup of coffee and a thousand police officers below me sipping tea as they try not to fall asleep.

Nostalgic.

New Neigborhood

Las Canitas is my new neighborhood. These are my friends Gonzalo and Naty on my first night in the new pad. When I first came here I thought it was too trendy for me. It's almost like the South Beach of Buenos Aires. It has layers though. While it's not a barrio barrio, it's definitely a curious place. Dog walkers, joggers, those who weed through the trash looking for cardboard or bottles or whatever else they might be able to sell, polo players, beautiful people sitting in corner cafes, and three sushi restaurants on my street alone. This is a far cry from my last two homes--downtown Buenos Aires and Zamalek in Cairo.

Sure, there are things I miss about the other two places. I miss the chaos sometimes. And although it feels like I've sold out by not waiting until I found an apartment in the more bohemian quarter, San Telmo , the green trees and fresh air here more than make up for the plastic breasts and sculpted bodies I share the streets with.